R & G Crash Bungs - Anyone Fitted?

[NakedNinja]

I'm doing my first small mods to the Z this weekend.  I'm what you'd call an novice on wrenches. I don't mind starting jobs, but worry about getting out of my depth. I'm looking to change that going forward.

First up is a Rad Guard - dead easy.

The other is R & G Crash Bungs. Again another easy mod, but I'm confused on Torque Settings. The instructions on the Bungs seem to be emphatic about 40nm of torque. The service Manual seems to indicate 54nm

I've seen various other posts around the web saying 44Nm and "Do it 'til it's tight the back a quarter"

So if you've fiited R&G bungs(or any other). What did you torque it too?

Thanks in advance

Paul

[RobZ900]

Haven’t got the R&G bungs on mine, I’ve got Evotech which didn’t even give a torque spec, so I just went by the manual. If the R&G bungs are giving a different torque, perhaps that’s what they tested it at What I will say is that the factory bolts were bloody tight, I’d be amazed if they were only 54Nm! If you’ve got a torque wrench, take the bolts to 40Nm and see how it feels as you tighten them up. If you’re not happy with how tight they are, perhaps go up a little bit. Sorry I can’t be much more use than that. Whatever torque you settle on, just make sure to test them again after a couple of rides.

[NakedNinja]

Thanks Rob - I suspect you're right and R&G have tested to 40nm

I'll give it tighten-check-tighten

[Cazzy_R]

Just fitted these to my KTM.
As OP states 40Nm is the suggested max from R&G.
KITM'S torque spec for those bolt holes is 45Nm. That's M10 in steel rather than M8 in aluminium for a Kawasaki.
 I tightened to 40Nm. I suspect that it's something to do with the shake proof washers supplied by R&G. Maybe you are not supposed to flatten them out too much?

Be wary of those shake proof washers though. If you assemble to R&G's drawing they dig into the plastic bungs and its impossible (for me anyway) to correctly orientate the bung because it turns as you try to torque to spec.
I had to flip the order of the washers (lock washer under bolt head) to be able to hold the bungs in the correct orientation until tightened up to 40Nm.

 Your experience may vary. Good luck.

[NakedNinja]

Interesting. I have a friend who struggled to get the bungs to line up properly.

Years ago I fitted a set to my ZX6R G2.  I can't remember much about it other than the trauma of cutting the fairing.  On my first P7F model I had the dealer fit them and on the second they were already on.

No fairings to worry about with the Z, but in my world no job ever goes quite to plan.

[RobZ900]

Originally Posted by NakedNinja

Interesting. I have a friend who struggled to get the bungs to line up properly.

Years ago I fitted a set to my ZX6R G2.  I can't remember much about it other than the trauma of cutting the fairing.  On my first P7F model I had the dealer fit them and on the second they were already on.

No fairings to worry about with the Z, but in my world no job ever goes quite to plan.

That’s something to be aware of. Make sure you support the engine with a jack and only do one side at a time, otherwise it could drop slightly and make it difficult to get the bolts to line up. Just put a block of wood or something between the jack and the flat part of the oil sump.

[Cazzy_R]

Engine never budged when I fitted another brand of single point crash bungs to my Z900.
I would suggest ensuring that ALL the engine mounting bolts are tightened to spec. before you remove just one bolt and fit the first crash bung into that hole.
Fully tighten before removing the other bolt.

[NakedNinja]

All fitted perfectly - no disasters. Engine stayed in place.

The hardest bit was preventing the bungs rotating while finally torquing them. Also fitted a rad guard.

I had to dodge shows as I started late as a result of picking my ZX6R up from a very expensive garage appointment...

Snapped some pics, but can't seem to get them to upload... I'll check that out.

Anyway thanks for your help, everyone.